Saturday, October 08, 2005

The Birth of a Restaurant

Rick Nelson, Star Tribune
September 29, 2005


One consequence of the celebrity chef's cooking-is-a-breeze mentality is that it has deluded us into believing that we all are just a dinner party away from the glamour, prestige and riches of restaurant ownership. But after observing seasoned veterans Stewart and Heidi Woodman devote a grueling 18 months -- six months longer than planned -- to coax their Minneapolis restaurant to life, here's a piece of advice: Don't quit your day job.
Developing and then running a first-rate dining establishment is a task best left to professionals -- like the Woodmans. After building their résumés in a bevy of New York City's top restaurants, the couple impressed locals during their yearlong, four-star stint at Levain in Minneapolis. ("The neighborhood restaurant has ascended to stratospheric new heights," raved this critic.)
In 2004 they moved on, this time with plans to open their own restaurant. The Woodmans knew what they were up against. The failure rate of new restaurants isn't the equal of, say, a new sitcom striking it rich on network television, but it's close. Yet their new venture, with its countless decisions, frustrations and joys, proved to be an adventure that exceeded their expectations.

http://www.startribune.com/stories/438/5640621.html